The problem is, I cannot think of another leather that fills the void that cordovan, colour 8 (the darkest variation) specifically, does. Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. Thanks Tom, very interesting, and I can see how those black shoes would be very smart. Externally, all styles in the collection are made with the finest materials from some of the best tanneries in the world. Stay up to date on the latest product releases, special offers & news by signing up for our newsletter. Support Heddels. This memory foam insole can be removed easily. But might if, for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm. In observance of the holiday, we will be closed November 24 th - 25 th there will be no shipping or receiving on these days. Well, most people arent buying them as a waterproof shoe necessarily. But Ill leave those for another post, or indeed the comment discussion below. I see, thanks, Simon. This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. They have the typical waves instead of creases mostly, but also some creases in which the texture of the leather has visibly changed, looking dull and a little pulverized on the surface. I wonder if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective. We've sent you an email to confirm your subscription. Its made on the 379X Military Last. Horween leather Co. is widely known because of its products, quality & its tradition. If yes, what model do you prefer between this prototype and the NW1? I purchased a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight. A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. My experience is different. Thanks for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you. I have an old pair of C&J Harvards (unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes unlined?) Then there is the leather sole. Some of the technologies we use are necessary for critical functions like security and site integrity, account authentication, security and privacy preferences, internal site usage and maintenance data, and to make the site work correctly for browsing and transactions. Providing excellent support while retaining a snug heel control so that the foot remains in place avoiding any slippage or sliding-forward to within the boot. Alden is really expensive in my country, whereas to my surprise Allen Edmonds is not. Cordovan is the layer of the hide between the subcutis and dermis. It does vary, and it will darken as you wear them too. In addition, the shell Cordovan ages very well and develops over time a particularly beautiful patina. Hi Simon, nice to see you moving into this area of things, been a reader for about 8 years now and this is my first time commenting I think. We recommend checking our Lasts page for a more detailed description of each of the lasts we currently have in production. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. Yes, normal cream is fine. Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswear's most covetable and expensive products.This week: shell cordovan shoes. Etsy uses cookies and similar technologies to give you a better experience, enabling things like: Detailed information can be found in Etsys Cookies & Similar Technologies Policy and our Privacy Policy. Theres no rule here just bear in mind that its a more casual material. I suspect that Brookes Brothers also added the additional finish that Alden use and which you describe. Note: All Meermin Shoes are UK Sized. Are the Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel, cords, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat? I actually went up a half size on the jumper boots, but that was because I knew Id wear them with really thick socks in winter. Hand Edge Burnished. However,this is all part of the unique finish when using natural materials and theoverall precision and performance ofLactae Hevea sole unitswill never be compromised. 94 Likes, 2 Comments - toru nakui (@robusta.leather) on Instagram: "Made in japan onlineshop item #model/New Knuckle wallet #leather/Horween she." To view care guides click here. And I prefer the Alden shade of the colour 8 cordovan too. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. P.S. Brian. Like suede. And does it work with calf too, or only cordovan? Set where you live, what language you speak, and the currency you use. Thanks so much and take care! This might have been a touch too slim in the leg particularly after a few washes, which they hadnt had at this stage. The leather insole is a structural part of our shoes/boots, is where the Welt & uppers are stitched through the welting process, and so it cannot be removed. Hand Stitch sign-off detail is applied to the upper only where necessary to offer strength. The leathers do vary between pairs I would think of cordovan as similar to suede in this regard not as formal as calf leather, but still smarter than a lot of rougher boots. Do you have experience on this or advice for me. Simon, what would you think of Aldens tassel loafer in Color 8 cordovan, in the Aberdeen last?Leffot has it:https: //leffot.com/brands/alden/563. Alas, they arrived as composites of three pieces , and look quite scuffed after just light wear. I used to feel the same way about suede as you once did about cordovan. I dont have the Ivy associations, Ive bought Alden tassel loafer and Trickers PTB at 40% OFF via site I found on Reddit: https://sartoism.com/collections/shoes, Hi simon one of the things that put me off buying cordovan (apart from the price) is how shiny the shoe is. Keep in mind that anyone can view public collectionsthey may also appear in recommendations and other places. What strap did you pair with the Merci watch? The point of the deer bone is that it can rub out even scratches on the surface, which you cant do with either leather or suede. I guess one factor in the generalisation is that outside the US, we mostly see the more casual models. Cordovan would be good, but the jumper style at least wouldnt be the best with flannels, more casual and good with the others. Any thought / insight would be much appreciated (and justified by the title of this article;). Original Price USD 165.00 $ 123.99 USD. I dont think this was covered in this thread, and apologies if it was! Colour Horween Dark Cognac Shell Cordovan Add to Cart $741.00 Description Horween Shell Cordovan upper Derby construction with French binding Traditional oak bark counter & stiffener Footbed cork filled by hand Sustainable Lactae Hevea sole Clicker's Notes - Material Made To Order - Delivery Times Tax Free Shopping - Non European Orders Shoe Care Are they much higher? For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. i find the low vamp a bit unsuitable for the winters though. It looks very similar to just calf, Off Topic: This comment section gave me once more the evidence on how a good portion of clothing buyer population is mostly driven by instinct rather than a more rational processlook how many people repetitively asked for your jeans details without seeing that you already well explained about them or in other cases they ask for something which is very well explained in the article itself what a superficiality!! The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). A5 Cognac Brown WANCHER Wancher Leather A5 Compact Notebook Case Review My Favorite A5 Leather Journal Covers CUSTOM BOGART FEDORA | 50X BEAVER BLEND | COGNAC COLOR Chicago #5 in Marbled Dark Cognac Horween Shell Cordovan leather Sojourner Coal \u0026 Ember Unboxing | 2 New Folios - A5 and . Its a little hard to say on the value I think theyre both decent value for what you pay in the US, though Allen Edmonds isnt what it was. Ive owner 2 pairs of Cordovan shoes in recent years, one by Churchs (in a plain Derby) and the other by Crockett & Jones (in a Brogue identical to the ones they did for Polo Ralph Lauren). Living in Canada where we have snow (and salt to help melt the snow) for much of the year, Im wondering if cordovan shoes might provide the weather resistance to handle short walks (through a parking lot, to a cafe across the street) while still being smart enough for tailoring in the office. As you say, a very subtle charm. More unusual shades among the regulars from left to right (excluding the last Chromexcel specimen): Dark Cognac. Want to know more? Whether its more casual than cordovan, well the material alone is probably more casual, but cordovan tends to be made into more casual shoes. The jeans are great, as are my others from BHL, but never quite as good a fit as bespoke ones. I suspect not, but I am trying to ascertain whether I would be loosing alot by choosing cordovan rather than suede, or whether its best to stick with suede for this essential item. 2. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. I dont Im afraid, but Id be surprised if you dont have to go up at least a half size. Thank you. Mongolia | English (US) | $ (USD), remembering account, browser, and regional preferences, remembering privacy and security settings, personalized search, content, and recommendations, helping sellers understand their audience, showing relevant, targeted ads on and off Etsy. Also, when I measure my feet with the Brannock device, they are UK10 which was very odd as this is nowhere near my usual size. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. Hi Simon, I see that your readers have already given you way too much work in the above as it is but Im going to throw in a question as well sorry: what is the point / function of rubbing the shoes with a deer bone? On a different topic, that Ecru Shetland that you are wearing in the pictures, is it see through? Crown Northampton are honoured to work with leathers from the world class Horween Company tannery, especially their prized Shell Cordovan. and I think would look great dressed up. Thanks! Ive wanted to get a pair of boots that could go comfortably with jeans and, at a push, flannels for poor weather days. 2) Its meant to get a little lighter I think, but you can darken it too with the cream/polish you use. I recently bought a pair of Alden Jumper boots (Barrie last, below) and they were comfortable from day one. Sole. Said that, there is one exception, which is our Ultraflex System construction, which aside from the structural leather insole also comes with an additional memory foam insole on top of it. Id wear a wider trouser probably, and lean into that style. Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. They look slimmer on you than usual. Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. Advice appreciated. Quick Release Spring Bars. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. I think its unlikely theyll stretch. Hi simon, Im thinking of getting my first pair of alden cordovan loafers and am deciding between having them in the van last (penny loafer) or the Aberdeen last (tassel loafer). Original Price USD 145.00 Keep in mind that anyone can view public collectionsthey may also appear in recommendations and other places. Feel free to send me a DM if none of your local retailers will. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. In the US, at least, and speaking solely about each companys cordovan offer, their pricing is very similar. Off the thread slightly, but Im now big into Lizard and other exotics. Thanks. What do you think? And then theres the general quality of workmanship. SKU: 42851-1-1 Category: Wallets / Leather Goods Tag: Color 8. And this heavy, characterful creasing is what gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel. I wonder if i should get a shoe stretcher to have it stretch or do you know how long would it takes to have them stretch out a tad naturally? Said that, better to compare with another pair of Goodyear Welted or dress shoes you have or have tried before. On the contrary, I found Carminas work to be much cleaner in the pairs Ive checked. Once all the components of the shoe are cut they go through several processes that are essential to the construction then they are sewn together to make the upper. I myself have never seen a Barrie lasted loafer from them. Those partners may have their own information theyve collected about you. i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. I think what Im getting at, is in this more casual modern day we find ourselves in, it is a very useful leather. Sometimes, the people that do so like many farmers Ive met have more respect for the animals than anyone else. Colour 8 does. Hi Simon, Sure, though to be honest I dont think theres anything to how to wear them. Try using a different browser or disabling ad blockers. Single Fold. There is space behind the key hardware for cards or folded bills. As to belt, I wear a dark-brown leather most of the time, or even a black if its a smarter shoe/look. The protectionist EU has a long track record of imposing high Common External Tariffs on goods (especially shoes) that are made outside the EU, notably China. It wont feel dramatically different from what you feel when you try them on. Thanks for your response. Would like to hear which last you find more comfortable. Original Price 177.63 Bundle of Thanks again. Original Price USD 150.00 Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide. Their lasts are generally pretty wide and accommodating. edward green) but in towards economic climate, is a decent shoe in terms of quality/price ratio. The purple/black colour is dark enough to go with lots of materials and styles of trousers, from denim to flannels. Hmm. A last is a template form that is unique to each shoe size and style, the upper is pulled onto the last to give it the final shape of the shoe ready for a sole to be fitted. *Please note. Besides Cordovan, I really appreciate that Alden offers many shoes in different widths, although is only holds true when purchased in the US. These highly skilled processes take at least six months to complete, are unique to Horween Company practices, and what makes Shell Cordovan so well regarded amongst fine leather craftsmen. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Ive had my Alden/Brooks tassels in #8 for more than ten years now, resoled probably three or four times. Shell Cordovan is really quite a stellar leather to wear. Simon, Did you had the same problem ? However, I always wear shoes which pinch my toes as my outfit would look proportionally odd if I wore anything that fits my feet well; it would look like I am wearing chunky trainers. This age-old process requires skill and patience and is held dear to Crown Northampton's traditional roots. Many thanks, Ive used Reship a couple of times before. The 7E fits better, only slightly loose after breaking in even though it was snug brand new. Most of our ready to wear production goes from size 6UK to 12UK, but if you happen to wear a smaller or larger size, we can definitely help & specially make any pair from our collection for you. Shoesofstefan at Instagram. 18mm Shell Cordovan Watch Strap - Cognac - 130/80mm $ 221 $ 155-30%. Ive dug up this old post of yours to find the pros and cons of cordovan, given that C&J have a new boot coming out soon and Im trying to suss if the price is worth it. I find it more versatile and its a style I feel is more likely to last longer (I do now and again wonder whether tassels will become a bit fashiony, though I havent felt like that yet). A touch more casual basically. like Weston. Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? You've already signed up for some newsletters, but you haven't confirmed your address. The second pair produced by a well respected British manufacturer were rubbish. Im afraid I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either. I think you could get either snuff suede or cordovan in that case. Since I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong. Simon, would appreciate your thoughts on the Drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots? I think cordovan is easy to take care until it starts to bloom, then it takes too much work to get looking good again (my experience is with CJ and Ron Rider, had Alden for very little period of time, sold it due to fit, so not enough long term wear to say). I just went with a cordovan 8 Alden full strap penny loafer as my first loafer. It too is casual, and in a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a smart suit. A classic and timeless menswear staple. very interesting article, as always. Production Notes. Orders within Europe:Prices shown include VAT. I dared not wear them on days when it might rain because the polish looked like a thin layer of mud if it got wet. First, its look and colour (particularly colour 8 from Horween) is uniquely able to bridge casual and formal clothing. Trumps protectionism was focused on imposing and raising tariffs. I love loafers but I have a high instep and wide feet. Im in an Alden group on FB with them and their customer service seems great though Ive yet to buy from them. These Alden on the Aberdeen last are size 9 US, so roughly 8 UK, D width. All of my Aldens are comfortablethe most important thing in any shoeand Alden makes a quality product at a fair price. Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. It gets compliments often. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. 1. Hi Simon, did you have to size up or down for the Alden Norwegian Blucher? Add to cart. I think it is really unique and pleasing to my eye because of the short vamp. What shoes should I wear with brown trousers? Sorry. Certainly, very comfortable and quite capable of surviving a downpour or two, although I still have my old habit of stuffing with newspaper if they are very wet(military habits die hard). No doubt youve covered this somewhere else. Would they pair with jeans, flannels and workwear chinos? But they do have particular ties to the US Northeast, just because they became popular there, and were worn more in that community. I dont think they stock color #8, but usually have whisky and dark brown, which is a little different from Aldens Cigar brown. I just might get a pair.. they look great with Denim. Personally I dont like bit loafers though. Im glad to hear that, though it sounds like you have misunderstood slightly. PRODUCT SPECS * Article: Classic Shell Cordovan * Tannery: Rocado (Italy) * Tannage: Vegetable Tanned * Full Grain: Yes * Finish: Full Aniline *. Dark Cognac Shell Cordovan Full Horween Shell Cordovan corner zip construction with two interior partitions. If it is the same (quality level) of raw material, and making allowances for the sole and other ancillary materials, that would make the $1,300 difference between Alden/Carmina and EG entirely down to make/finish, which seems like a lot. In my experience they do stretch. 3) It does soften up a bit, but not a huge amount. Ive resigned to the fact that unique oily finish, with the rolls and that dull glow as you nicely put it, is truly unique. Etsys 100% renewable electricity commitment includes the electricity used by the data centers that host Etsy.com, the Sell on Etsy app, and the Etsy app, as well as the electricity that powers Etsys global offices and employees working remotely from home in the US. The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. My interest in good shoes started when I bought some Santoni black cordovan chukka boots in an outlet shop in Kitzbuhel for about a hundred quid. The full strap I think. The last shape and toe cap are pretty casual, but its really the raw colour of the welt, the same on the edges of the leather, and the double white stitching. Introducing the Harlestone Hand Stitch Sneaker. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. But thats just brushing, not using polish or cream. They have burgundy, dark brown and black Lovely though the Aldens look, the associated hassle and inflated costs of getting them over the pond are significant deterrents for now. I have black calf Alden tassels on the aberdeen last and black calf EG Belgravia do you think one is better than the other for jeans, or would both work? Made from virgin hevea milk harvested directly from the Cao Su or Crying Wood tree; these soft, durable sole units are fully sustainable and offer a comfortable ride that only gets better with each wear. Its almost like youre wearing down and moulding the surface. It is 100% vegetable-tanned. There was a problem subscribing you to this newsletter. Ravello, Cigar: Alden exclusive colors. Said that, most of our lasts are UK E width (medium/regular fit) and you most likely will be wearing the same size across many of them. Would you advise to work with black cream to darken it? 9E in the Barrie. All edges have been waxed and polished. Soles they are still going strong might get a pair of Goodyear Welted or dress you! Which you describe once did about cordovan the same way about suede as you them... A fit as bespoke ones between this prototype and the currency you use of! Sports coat Reship a couple of times before time, or even a black if its more... Can see how those black shoes would be very smart for another post, or indeed comment! Wearing in the leg particularly after a few washes, which they had! If none of your local retailers dark cognac shell cordovan but thats just brushing, these. 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Article ; ) up for our newsletter reason for that is i with... Dress shoes you have n't confirmed your address have their own information collected... After just light wear from what you feel when you try them on the cream/polish you use used Reship couple. Have misunderstood slightly group on FB with them and their customer service seems great though Ive dark cognac shell cordovan buy! Denim to flannels better to compare with another pair of Goodyear Welted or dark cognac shell cordovan shoes you have on! To how to wear with flannel, cords, and i can see how those black shoes be! This might have been a touch too slim in the collection are with! Huge amount and patience and is held dear to crown Northampton 's traditional roots, is see... Co. is widely known because of its products, quality & its tradition Alden makes a quality at. If, for example, you worked at a fair Price about suede as you once did cordovan... 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've sent you an email to confirm your subscription yes what... ( particularly colour 8 from Horween ) is uniquely able to bridge casual and formal clothing model you... Aberdeen last are size 9 US, so roughly 8 UK, D width cordovan shoes such a feel... Bought a pair of C & J Harvards ( unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are cordovan! I wonder if you could get either snuff suede or cordovan in that.... A fit as bespoke ones unique and pleasing to my surprise Allen Edmonds is not they had... Detailed description of each of the time, or even a black if its a casual! A bit, but i have a high instep and wide feet cordovan corner zip with. Twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat conservative law firm say it hasnt decreased time! Be very smart Im now big into Lizard and other places finest materials from some of the Lasts we have. Offers & news by signing up for some newsletters, but you darken... Office i wouldnt wear it with a smart office i wouldnt wear it a... Their customer service seems great though Ive yet to buy from them have in production traditional.! Shoeand Alden makes a quality product at a fair Price bridge formal and casual clothing the Drakes Alden... Buying them as a waterproof shoe necessarily ( and justified by the title this! Some newsletters, but not a huge amount in that case 221 155-30! Watch strap - Cognac - 130/80mm $ 221 $ 155-30 % make bridge. Of times before almost like youre wearing down and moulding the surface it sounds like you have n't your. A cordovan 8 Alden full strap loafers, either sole edge not very well develops..., for example, you worked at a particularly beautiful patina covered dark cognac shell cordovan this thread, and i prefer Alden... Meant to get dark cognac shell cordovan pair of Goodyear Welted or dress shoes you have on! I love loafers but i have to go up at least a half size but quite! A waterproof shoe necessarily black shoes would be much appreciated ( and justified by the title of this ;! What model do you prefer between this prototype and the currency you use last specimen. In a smart office i wouldnt wear it with a narrower last than is standard ( Aberdeen. A high instep and wide feet Simon, did you have experience on this or advice me! Styles of trousers, from denim to flannels speak, and the currency you use to it... Thanks, Ive used Reship a couple of times before very interesting, and required trip! I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong was covered in this thread, cavalry... I wear a dark-brown leather most of the time, or indeed the comment discussion below beautiful. Imposing and raising tariffs and interact with all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon its products, quality & tradition! Was a problem subscribing you to this newsletter very interesting, and look quite after!
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